From Rural to Urban: How Indian Textile Artists Adapted During Covid-19

This article serves as a review for a multimedia presentation by Shani & Joji at Te Papa on June 15th, 2023. Additionally, you can access supplementary details to compliment the presentation.

India boasts a rich heritage of handloom weaving that dates back to ancient times. After agriculture, handloom weaving is one of the largest economic activities, employing over 11 million weavers and allied workers. However, the industry faces numerous challenges that threaten its survival and growth.

During their presentation, Shani Pillai and Joji Jacob shed light on the artisan community’s struggles, including those in tribal, rural, and urban areas. They particularly highlighted the adverse effects of the Covid-19 pandemic on the weaving, performing arts, and handicraft sectors. The disrupted supply chains, reduced demand, and loss of income and livelihood have compelled many of these artisans to either migrate or pursue alternative career paths.

Himroo is a luxurious handwoven brocade fabric made with silk and cotton yarns.
It was brought to Aurangabad by Sultan Mohammad bin Tughlaq when he shifted his capital from Delhi to Aurangabad in the 13th century. The name originated from the Persian word Hum-ruh which means ‘similar’. This is because Himroo is similar to the Persian “kinkhwab” fabric. It was borne out of the interaction between Persian weavers and the local weavers of nearby Paithan. Himroo designs are traditionally ornate in nature with paisleys, marigolds, vines and fruit being popular motifs.

Himroo’s popularity grew with Mughal rule and reached its pinnacle during the reign of the Nizams of Hyderabad who ruled over Aurangabad until the mid-1900s. However, post Independence, the craft has been gradually in decline and appears to have died out completely in the last 10 years. The challenge of this monumental revival project has been taken up by LoomKatha, a social enterprise working for the economic empowerment of handloom weavers.

Their speciality is in designing & developing exclusive and customised theme-based acoustic textile panelling and murals created with varied types & combinations of fabrics, employing innovative & meticulous production processes evolved in-house, over the years.

Their design approach is largely influenced by the nature of the material, the space and the desired ambience, without sacrificing the functionality.
Though they don’t have a signature style, their work can be recognised from the intricate patterns produced with meticulous skill sets.

They consciously try to avoid repeating their designs and are reputed for taking a fresh approach to each project, with a sensitivity and commitment to deliver a durable & sustainable product, well within the agreed budget and timelines.